Hi all,
new to the site and im at my wits end with an on going fault.

As above, the fault code is P0487 and P0488. After googling for ever all i get is the generic EGR SYSTEM FAULT. i have a 2008 Outlander Warrior 2.2 DI-D. the car runs perfectly fine but the CEL is on permenantly. i have had the EGR valve changed - fault still there. today i took off the TPS which had seized but after freeing it and cleaning it it moved freely. cleared the fault code and went for a spin, all was well and no light. however, after turning the engine off then back on again.... bing! light on and same fault code back on

MOT time soon and i need to get to the bottom of this

can someone PLEASE give me a steer

 

The closest match I can find the 2011 service manual for my 3.0L Outie GT S-AWC (USA), is:

P0489 EGR valve (stepper motor) circuit malfunction (ground short).

I know it's a totally different engine but maybe it'll help you.

 

Krismartin001....did you ever solve this problem? My Outlander seems to have exactly the same issue....

 

nope still stumped

does anyone know where i can download a service manual for this car? looking for ages with no joy, even went to local dealer and still no joy

MOT time is getting ever closer and desperately need some HELP!

i did unship my TPS and when the accelerator was pressed the valve didnt move even though it was electrically still connected

 

Did you replace the EGR valve regulator? There was another thread on here with someone getting the same code, and they replaced both the valve and the regulator to get rid of it.

I also found this: Code No. P0487: Throttle Valve Too Open

 

I have replaced the EGR valve (the part with the vacuum capsule) is there a seperate regulator part?

 

According to that other thread, it appears there is. However, this is news to me.

Quite simply, the reason the code is being thrown is because the ECU is looking for a certain resistance value on that circuit and it's not getting it within the right parameters. So one of a few things may be happening. Either there's some corrosion on some contacts, the resistance of the wire has changed, or the there's an electrical fault within the circuit itself. Which makes this incredibly difficult to diagnose from my couch.

 

As far as i understand it (and i have a 2.0 DI-D Outlander), the EGR system consists of 2 parts and 2 valves.
There is a cooler on the back of the engine which cools the exhaust gases (or not) depending on if the valve there is open or shut. This depends on the engine water temperature being over 35 degrees as to if the valve is opened or shut. When shut the gases go via the cooler, when open they bypass the cooler.
The second part is the EGR valve itself which takes the exhaust gases and leaks them into the inlet manifold in a controlled way. I think this part is right on the front of the engine and from what i can tell, it has its own air intake (which i find odd - why doesnt it take filtered air from the filter box???)
Now because my car behaves completely normal except giving the P0487 error on startup occasionally....i THINK....the ECU operates the valves to full open and full closed during startup...i.e. testing the system. Now if the EGR is caked up with carbon, then it might be that the valve is slightly restricted and doesnt quite reach its full open/closed position which gives the fault...

So my suggestion (and this is what i will do) is clear out the EGR valve with some carborettor cleaner, put back together and see what happens!

I keep getting told that the vast majority of problems with EGR valves is they get caked up...

Anyway, give it a try on yours (post a pic if you can) and see what happens....

Matt

 

Just thought i would let you know.....i just cleaned out my EGR....was really gunged up!
Its not too hard to do, just a little fiddly....
You will need a T50 torx bit to remove the exhaust inlet from the side of the valve and then T30 torx key to remove the EGR and throttle body assembly from the engine. I suggest a T30 torx key rather than a socket bit because one of the bolts is tricky to get to with a pipe in the way
Anyway i cleaned the assembly with a can of carb cleaner and a small wire brush. Looks like new now!
Put it all back together and the car runs nice, maybe even more responsive than before!
Lets just hope my fault doesnt come back now.....

 

Fingers crossed for a cheap fix.